Two examples are the Rolex Triple Calendar Moonphase references 81 with day window, a month window, a date indicator around the dial periphery, and a moon phase display. In the 1940s and 1950s, Rolex made a handful of complicated models that have since become exceedingly coveted in the vintage market. Prices for vintage Datejust models start around the low thousands and can quickly go up from there. However, a good place to start is with either the non-quickset Datejust 16xx references from the 1960s and 1970s or the quick-set Datejust 16xxx from the 1970s and 1980s. Given the large variety, prices for vintage Datejust watches vary wildly. The Datejust has grown to become Rolex's flagship watch, not only available in an assortment of metals but also with a variety of bracelet styles, bezel finishes, and dial colors. However, in 1977, Rolex introduced Caliber 3035 and along with it, brought about the quickset date feature to the Datejust so that the date could be set independently from the time. Originally, the date feature on the Datejust was not quickset, which means that to change the number in the window, the timekeeping hands have to be continuously advanced past midnight. The now-ubiquitous Cyclops date magnification lens joined the Datejust in the mid-1950s and subsequently rolled out to other Rolex models with date windows. Featuring a five-link configuration, the Jubilee is now one of Rolex’s most famous bracelet designs. Another novelty of the Datejust was its bracelet, aptly named the Jubilee bracelet due to the commemorations.

In fact, the Rolex Datejust was the first automatic chronometer-rated wristwatch to display the date via a window. The Datejust naturally included the company’s signature Oyster case and Perpetual movement, but it also offered a few novel details.įirst, there was the date window on the dial after which the model is named. In 1945, Rolex launched the Datejust watch to celebrate the company's 40th anniversary. Today, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubble Back models can start in the low thousands price range-which is an unbelievable deal considering the significance of this model on not only Rolex's history but also on watchmaking's history at large. The 1980s were the heyday for vintage Oyster Perpetual Bubble Back collecting as they became sought-after in the Japanese market. Over the decades the Bubble Back was made in a variety of styles and metals including steel, gold, and two-tone steel. Sizes of vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubble Backs are small by today’s standards, 32mm to 34mm depending on the reference. The Rolex Bubble Back models were the first to combine the waterproof Rolex Oyster cases with the automatic Rolex Perpetual movements, therefore birthing the now famed Rolex Oyster Perpetual concept. This distinct case shape has led the watches' collective nickname, the Rolex Bubble Back-also known as the Rolex Ovettone (Italian for 'little egg'). Rolex's first self-winding calibers would lay the groundwork for almost-all future Rolex watches-a company now famous for its collection of durable, serviceable, and high-quality automatic movements.Įarly automatic Rolex watches included protruding casebacks to accommodate the addition of the winding rotor. In 1931, Rolex introduced the Perpetual movement, which included a winding rotor so that the movement would self-wind. Below is a quick overview of some of the most sought-after or covetable vintage Rolex watches in the market. With a watchmaker as prolific as Rolex, it can be hard to determine which vintage Rolex watch models are collectible. The most expensive Rolex watch ever sold at auction was Paul Newman's own Daytona Paul Newman, purchased for $17.8 million in 2017.

For example, some Paul Newman Rolex Daytona models, such as the 6239, 6240, 62, are now valued at over $150,000.The November 10th, 2013 Christies auction in Geneva, the Rolex Daytona 'Lesson One' 50 exceptional examples of the world's most celebrated chronograph wristwatch auction, realized over $12,000,000 for 50 watches or on average of $250,000 per watch. Vintage timepieces have risen in popularity and demand over the last 5-10 years with some models selling for more than a million dollars at auction houses.

Vintage swatch